How to Remove Moss From Roof Slates Without Damaging Them?

Why moss on slate roofs is a bigger deal than people think

Slate is tough, but it is also brittle. Moss does three annoying things at once:

• Holds water on the roof longer, which keeps everything damp and encourages more growth.
• Creeps under edges, which can lift slates slightly and expose nail holes or weak spots.
• Blocks gutters and valleys, causing overflow, staining, and damp issues lower down.

If you have a small patch, it might just be cosmetic. If you have thick growth, especially in valleys, around chimneys, or on north-facing slopes, that is where problems start.

First, check if you actually need to remove it

Not every bit of moss needs immediate action. You need to be honest about what you’re looking at.

Usually OK to monitor (for now):

• Light moss dusting, no thick mats
• No blocked gutters, no pooling, no overflow marks
• No signs of slipped slates or staining inside

Worth dealing with sooner:

• Thick “carpet” moss you can grab with your hand
• Moss packed into valleys or behind chimneys
• Gutters filling fast, water spilling over after rain
• Slates starting to look uneven or lifted
• You’re seeing damp patches, mould, or water marks inside

If you’re already seeing leaks or slipped slates, stop thinking “cleaning” and start thinking “repair”. Cleaning won’t fix a roof that’s already failing.

What not to do (because it wrecks slate roofs)

If you only take one thing from this blog, take this.

Do not pressure wash a slate roof

Pressure washing is the fastest way to turn “moss removal” into “why is my ceiling dripping”. It can:

• Crack slates
• Dislodge slates
• Force water underneath
• Strip the surface, making moss return quicker

Do not scrape aggressively with random tools

A hoe, trowel, or metal scraper used with force will chip edges and snap slates. Slate damage is rarely obvious from the ground, but you’ll pay for it later.

Do not pour strong bleach everywhere

Bleach can run into gutters, kill plants, stain surfaces, and it still doesn’t solve the main issue unless you kill spores properly and prevent regrowth.

The safest DIY method for slate: light manual removal + treatment

If you’re doing this yourself, the goal is remove the bulk gently, then treat what’s left so it dies off and washes away over time.

Step 1: Safety, access, and setup

Be blunt with yourself here. Slate is not a “just hop up there” roof.

• Use a solid ladder and have someone footing it.
• Wear grippy footwear and gloves.
• Avoid stepping directly on slates if you can. Slate cracks under point loads.
• If you cannot reach safely from a ladder or window, don’t push it.

If you need to walk the roof, you’re already in “call a professional” territory.

Step 2: Remove the heavy moss gently (dry day)

• Choose a dry day so moss is less slippery.
• Use a soft to medium stiff brush or a roof scraper designed for tiles (ideally on an extendable pole).
• Work top to bottom so you’re not lifting slates against their overlap.
• Do not dig into edges. If it won’t come off easily, leave it for the treatment stage.

Your job here is bulk removal, not making the slate look brand new in one go.

Step 3: Clear gutters and valleys

This matters more than people think. You can clean the roof perfectly and still end up with problems if the gutters stay blocked.

• Scoop out moss from gutters by hand.
• Check downpipes are running free.
• Clear any valley sections you can safely reach.

Step 4: Apply a proper biocide treatment (not pressure)

A roof biocide is designed to kill moss and spores so it doesn’t grow straight back.

• Apply using a garden sprayer.
• Follow the product instructions properly, don’t “guess the mix”.
• Avoid rinsing with pressure. In most cases, rain does the rest over time.

Expect the roof to improve gradually over weeks, not instantly. That’s normal.

Why pros remove moss by hand on slate (and why it’s worth it)

Here’s the truth. Slate roofs are expensive to repair and annoying to match when slates break. That’s why good roofers don’t go in like they’re cleaning a patio.

A proper slate-safe clean usually means:

• Hand removal, controlled and careful
• Protecting ridges, valleys, and flashings
• Cleaning gutters properly, not just “making the roof look nice”
• Treating with biocide so it stays clean longer

If someone offers to blast it clean in an hour with a pressure washer, that’s not a bargain, that’s a future leak.

How to stop moss coming back

You can remove moss, but if you don’t fix the conditions that caused it, it returns.

Reduce shade and damp

• Trim back overhanging branches.
• Improve airflow around the roofline where possible.

Keep drainage clear

• Clean gutters regularly, especially autumn and winter.
• Check valleys after storms.

Fit zinc or copper strips at the ridge

These help reduce regrowth because rainwater carries trace particles down the roof surface, making it harder for moss to thrive. It’s not magic, but it’s a solid long-term move, especially on shaded roofs.

Treat before it becomes a problem

A light biocide treatment every so often is cheaper than waiting for thick growth that needs heavy removal.

Common mistakes that cause cracked slates and leaks

If you want to avoid turning a simple job into a repair callout, avoid these:

• Scraping upwards against the slate overlap
• Working on wet or frosty days
• Using ladders badly positioned and leaning on gutters
• Trying to “finish the job” by rinsing with high pressure
• Forgetting gutters and valleys, then wondering why damp appears later

When to call a roofer instead of DIY

Call a roofer if any of this applies:

• The roof is steep, high, or you can’t reach safely
• Moss is packed into valleys or around chimneys
• You already have slipped slates or visible defects
• You suspect the moss roots have worked under slates
• You want it cleaned properly without taking chances

DIY is fine for a small patch you can reach safely. Everything else, stop being a hero.

Want moss removed without damaging your slate roof?

‍Alliance Roofing & Building remove moss by hand, clear gutters and valleys properly, then apply a roof-safe treatment to help prevent regrowth. If you want it done carefully, not rushed, get in touch for a quote.